We set the alarm for 8:00am and had a leisurely breakfast after our showers. We had to be over at the Helipad at 9:50am for our safety instruction, and as we like to be early or on time, we arrived well within given time frames.
Last night we ventured over to the Bar and Grill for tea. It was an enjoyable meal but nothing to write home about. Russ had his usual Parmi and I had Pasta Carbonara.
The day was sunny with a cool breeze, and there was a bit of a haze over the ranges.
We thought we may have had to share with other people as there were six of us in the safety briefing, but it turned out that they were running slightly behind schedule and these people were the 9:30am bunch.
It is very busy with air traffic. While we were waiting for our turn to board Jamie flew in from Uluru with passengers who must be loaded as they are flying out each time form Uluru to see the items of interest with the region and this is costing them $4000 per person each trip.
We watched while they were escorted out to the helicopter and buckled into their seats. Before the flight was able to lift the doors opened again and two of them got off the helicopter and came back to the office. Apparently, another of the passengers was a big man and the other people were unable to access their safety harness as he was sitting on it.
Emily escorted them away from the plane and re-booked them onto another flight, and Jamie came over to help with the start-up protocols with Soara while she did this.
Once they had left Emily came outside to where we were sitting and said Soara had insisted that she make sure Russ got one of the Professional Helicopter Services caps, valued at $25.00. Amazingly it actually fit his large head, so he was stoked.
We were extremely lucky to be the only passengers on our flight, and Soara was our pilot. Because of the differences in weight distribution – Soara and I in the front and Russ to one side in the back seat – Emily brought across one of the blue plastic containers that were near the office and put it on the empty back seat.
I commented to Soara that I had wondered what they were used for, and she grinned and said they were full of gin, vodka and tequila. We all enjoyed the joke.
I took my telephoto lens with me, and I should have had my normal lens, so Russ was able to get more photos than I did while we were in the helicopter. The George Gill Range is only a handful of kilometres from King’s Canyon and is where the ancient landscape comes to life.
The incredible forces which created King’s Canyon was also responsible for the creation of the middle ranges in the far distance from here, and the entire McDonnell Ranges which begin near Alice Springs.
The helicopter flight was stunning. Soara gave a running commentary about what we were seeing as she circled the King’s Canyon and she also had to keep in check with other craft in the area. The flight went for 15 minutes and was worth every cent. We were able to view the King’s Canyon Walk, the Garden of Eden, the City of Domes, and Carmichael’s Crag. (photos)
The Garden of Eden is so named because it has a perpetual water supply all year round. The City of Domes is very like the Bungle Bungles but smaller versions of them, and then we went out to view Carmichael’s Crag.
Kings Canyon is a valley that cuts firstly through a layer of Mereenie Sandstone, deposited about 400 million years ago, now forming sheer cliffs. Below the cliffs, the slope is less steep and the valley cuts through the softer Carmichael Sandstone, deposited about 440 million years ago. Between the Mereenie and the Carmichael Sandstone is a thin layer of purple mudstone, which represents deposits laid down when the environment was changing from shallow marine (Carmichael) to an inland dune field in which there were rivers and lakes (Mereenie).
At Kings Canyon, the Mereenie Sandstone is cut by a very well-developed set of west-north-west and a poorly developed set of north-north-east trending vertical joints. Erosion is proceeding along these joints. For instance, Kings Creek upstream of the main canyon flows along a series of straight lines; the lines forming right angles with each other and conform to the directions of the joint sets.
Many joints can be seen on the plateau on either side of the canyon. The best developed are parallel to the canyon wall. Some extend down for many metres and range from several metres wide down to hairline cracks.
The City of Domes is a feature of the canyon itself and the domes are a result of jointing and weathering. These deep cracks or joints criss-cross the local sandstone, resulting in quicker erosion, to form isolated blocks of sandstone. Further weathering by wind and rain have then eroded the top corners and sides of the blocks to form the domes that are visible today. The sandstone is quite soft rock and easily broken.
The section of Kings Creek called the Garden of Eden gets its name because of its lush vegetation. The canyon is made up of two layers of sandstone with a layer of hard mudstone in between. Rainwater percolates through the Mereenie Sandstone but the layer of shale stops the water soaking through into the Carmichael Sandstone. This creates a water table in the Mereenie Sandstone, above the layer of mudstone. The Garden of Eden cuts this water table, allowing stored water to slowly trickle out of the sandstone to water the lush vegetation.
The Mereenie Sandstone is a clean white sandstone. It was deposited in an environment which ranged from aeolian (i.e. in the air) to lacustrine (fresh-water lake) to marine. The red colour is believed to be due to an iron-rich dust blown onto the rock surface and then chemically fixed to the sand grains by a form of fungi which thrive on iron, silica and ephemeral (short lived) rainwater.
Kings Creek is 650 metres above sea level and the canyon walls range from 100 to 150 metres above the creek. The highest point of the George Gill Range is near Carmichaels Crag, 908 metres above sea level.
When Ernest Giles visited the area in 1872, he named a prominent peak (Carmichael’s Crag) after his companion Samuel Carmichael. Carmichael’s Crag is the highest point of the George Gill Range and sits over 900 m above sea level.
To the local Aborigines the site was a sacred women’s place and is meant to represent a dingo mother lying down with her eight pups suckling. This can be seen so clearly from the air as we came around Carmichael’s Crag from the Canyon side. (photo) We were very lucky to strike it at the right time of day when the sun’s rays were highlighting the curves of the canyon sides.
The King’s Canyon is in the Watarrka National Park and was leased to the Parks and Wildlife Service for 99 years in 2012 by the traditional owners with an agreement that the park will be jointly managed by traditional owners and ranges together.
After the helicopter flight we headed in the car to King’s Creek which meanders through King’s Canyon. The walking track is well designed and laid out with much of the stone that has fallen from the rim of the canyon itself. It is very popular, and we met lots of people both coming and going.
The trees in the bed of King’s Creek have to survive both floods and years of drought with little or no rains. Water may be found under the sandy creek beds for many months after a rain event. Living in a riverbed is no protection against severe drought. During dry times river red gums drop limbs and most of their leaves to be able to survive. The hollows left by falling limbs provide dwellings for many animals.
From the air King’s Creek looks like a ribbon of green compared to the surrounding countryside. It is country home to a diverse range of plants. On the cliffs and open sunny rockfall faces, cracks and crevices allow roots of stunted shrubs and tussock grasses to take hold.
On the shady side are dwarfed trees such as White Cypress and Ghost Gums. Shrublands of emu bush, wattle, spear vine and spinifex live on lower slopes where some soil is found. In lower shaded areas there can be stands of Native Fig and Striped Mint Bush.
Holly Grevilleas (photo) and Sticky Hop Bush survive on remnants of rainfall under the open canopy of the larger trees. Of the more than 600 plants recorded in the Park, over 60 are rare or remnant species.
The native flowers are also starting to come into season and are everywhere, but I have had no luck in sighting a dingo. They do give you an information sheet about what to do if one comes into the Caravan Park and other people have said they were here a few days ago.
Once we made it Back to the van Russ spoke with mum before we downloaded over 1500 photos from both cameras. Now the time-consuming part begins as we got through them to pick out the ones that are interesting.
We have investigated the Light Towers that are a feature here at the caravan park. (photo). Internationally acclaimed light artist, Bruce Munro, was inspired by naturalist Lyall Watson’s book ‘Gifts of the Unknown Things’, his fascination with the Australian Outback and his use of everyday objects to see sounds in colour.
The Light Towers is made up of 69 two-metre towers that represent the same number of ‘earth pulses’ described in Watson’s book.
The original score of the music played during the Light show was composed by Orlando Gough and the colours of the towers change in response to this entrancing music.
Bruce Munro first discovered his primary medium of light for expression at art school in the late 1970s. He remains intrigued by the sense of the unknown that he says only the Australian Outback can deliver.
Light Towers at King’s Canyon Resort and Caravan Park follows up his ‘Field of Light’ at Uluru which won him global recognition after its debut in 2016.
The ‘divine pulse’ is in the earth’s upper atmosphere which forms a deep note ‘well below human power of hearing’, and it resonates at a rate of 69 beats per day.
The 69 towers in the field look like enormous batteries of light and each one represents a pulse of the earth. Each tower stands 2 metres high and is constructed using 216 ordinary glass bottles, imported with meticulous care. They are layered in place by a series of 5mm steel dividers (photo) and are connected by threaded rods built for this purpose and anchored to a concrete plinth.
Empty save for illuminated optic fibres which give off each tower’s hue, they survive solely on the power of a 12-volt battery, charged by the outback sun. Each tower generate enough watts to work its own wifi receiver, a speaker and a RGB projector (red, green, blue).
The musical score heard during the display is a capella soundscape that follows the lyrical cycle of a day from sunshine to sunset.
Spinifex grass abounds all over this area. It was first valued by the Aboriginal population as an abundant source of tasty grains. The spinifex and other seeds were ground into a flour and the resulting ‘bush breads’ formed an important part of the traditional diet.
It was also critical in spear-making because of the adhesive resin that can be extracted from the spinifex stems.
A recent study by the university of Queensland proved that spinifex nanofibers could significantly improve household latex and even make commercial cement mixes up to 20% stronger.