The sky is full of fluffy white clouds with some blue showing, and the sun was shining.
I did a load of washing while Russ had his shower and breakfast and left them on the line to dry.
Once everything was loaded, we headed out on the Great Eastern Highway for Westonia. This drive is part of the Goldfields Water Pipeline Trail.
In 1903 the Goldfields Water Supply Scheme became the ‘golden pipeline’, bringing reliable fresh water to the parched area. Once labelled a ‘scheme of madness’, it is now internationally acclaimed.
Designer CY O’Connor believed fresh water could be pumped so far and lifted so high through a steel pipeline that it would reach the gold fields at Kalgoorlie, 560 km from the storage reservoir (Mandaring Weir) in the Perth Hills. It was such an audacious plan for the time that it was met with both wild optimism and harsh condemnation.
The pipeline, together with the ensuing population expansion and the clearing of land for agricultural purposes, spelled prosperity for many colonist farmers and miners, but disaster for traditional Aboriginal ways of life.
The Goldfields Water Supply Scheme is now recognised on the National Heritage List, and the associated Golden Pipeline Heritage Trail offers a unique heritage tourism experience that explores this history of struggle and survival, with 25 stops at key places along its length.
The National Trust has been managing these places and the many stories associated with them, in collaboration with Water Corporation and various local governments, since 1997.
The pipeline continues to operate today, supplying water to over 100,000 people in over 33,000 households as well as mines, farms and other enterprises.
Although supported by Premier Forrest, O’Connor had to deal with widespread criticism and derision from members of the WA Parliament as well as the local press based on a belief that the scope of the engineering task was too great and that it would never work.
There was also a concern that the gold deposits would soon be depleted, and the state would have a significant debt to repay but little or no commerce to support it.
Sunday Times editor Frederick Vosper – who was also a politician, ran a personal attack on O’Connor’s integrity and ability through the paper. Timing was critical, Forrest as a supporter had moved into Federal politics, and the new Premier George Leake had long been an opponent of the scheme.
O’Connor died by suicide in March 1902, less than 12 months before the final commissioning of the pipeline.
Lady Forrest officially started the pumping machinery at Pumping Station Number One (Mundaring) on 22 January, and on 24 January 1903 water flowed into the Mount Charlotte Reservoir at Kalgoorlie. O’Connor’s engineer-in-chief, C. S. R. Palmer took over the project after his death, seeing it through to its successful completion.
The government conducted an inquiry into the scheme and found no basis for the press accusations of corruption or misdemeanours on the part of O’Connor. (Frederick Vosper – Big bully, and I bet he never had to account for his part in the suicide.)
By 1930 it was obvious that, without substantial reconditioning, the days of the pipeline’s active service were numbered. In year 1931-32, the number of bursts on the main conduit due to corrosion reached an all-time high of 14 326, which was more than double the number in 1928-9 and represented an average of 39 every day for the year.
It was to be an army of unemployed (men out of work thanks to Great Depression) that saved the pipeline, relaying it above ground. Some of the original steel pipes were badly corroded and replaced with wooden pipes, assembled in the same manner as wooden barrels.
The Goldfields Water Supply Department first used wooden pipes in 1912 when about 800 metres of 20 inch (508 mm) Oregon pipe was used at the Toorak Hill bypass in Coolgardie. The trial, however, was not a success.
The pipe was subject to dry rot and termite damage and leaked profusely. So why were they used in the 1930s? The answer has to do with lack of state money to buy steel pipes from overseas at the time combined with a campaign (led largely by their wives) to keep workers at a wooden pipe factory employed.
At the height of the Great Depression in the early 1930s the Department was under enormous pressure to replace damaged steel pipes with pipes made from karri wood in an attempt to provide jobs and stimulate the local timber industry.
The Department was reluctant and it was only after 2½ years of testing that wood stave pipes were first connected to the main pipeline. Between 1933 and 1937 approximately 33 km of 24 inch (609 mm) and 30 km of 30 inch (762 mm) karri stave pipes were laid as part of the main line. A further 8.8 km of 10 inch (254 mm) wood pipes were used for branch lines.
The pipe lengths varied from 1.5 m to 6.6 m according to the available timber. The 5 inch (127 mm) wide staves were treated with sodium fluoride and kiln dried before being bound with galvanised wire, covered in tar and bitumen, and dipped in whitewash. Before installation they were closed at each end and filled with water to allow the staves to expand and seal the pipe.
The last section of wood pipe remained in use until 1968, and this is no doubt the reason for the myth of the original pipe being made of wood. While the original pipeline was buried, the wooden pipes were installed – when it was re-laid – above ground and people alive today can remember seeing wooden pipes in situ.
In many parts as you drive along Great Eastern Highway to the Eastern Goldfields, the trench in which the original pipeline was buried is still clearly visible. Less easily seen, but sometimes spotted, are the remains of some of the wooden pipes laid in the 1930s in the shape of rotted staves and the wire that bound them. There is a section of this wooden pipe here at the Merredin caravan park.
Wood pipes were more easily damaged than steel pipes. Stories are told of thirsty donkeys that kicked holes in the pipe to get to the water. And wood was much less of a barrier to a wayward car.
In 1949, for example, 445 000 litres of water was lost when a car ran off the road near Southern Cross and hit the 24-inch wood pipe.
We took a slight detour at Burracoppin as there was evidence of a nature reserve just out of town. We had to pass the hotel to get to this road, and the hotel is for sale. (see photo) It is a beautiful looking old building, but I have no idea what it is like inside.
There was some indication that the wildflowers are starting to come out as we spotted lots of yellow along the roadside verges and the canola crops are a vast sea of yellow all around the area.
As we came around the corner of the road we saw a sign saying Watch for Mallee Fowls. Russ was about to comment and say that he wondered if the mallee fowls were aware this was their area when a mallee fowl sauntered across the road in front of us.
Of course, the cameras were in the back seat and by the time we had grabbed them and faced forward once more, we saw the fowl move into the bushland and lost it. Sorry, everyone – no photo.
Then a kangaroo bounded across the road and into the bushes. Once more, too late for a photo!
We couldn’t find Hunt’s Well after which the nature reserve is named but we stopped and stretched our legs for a look around. We could see any wildflowers, any more mallee fowls or kangaroos, but we did find the tiniest orange toadstool I have ever seen. There is a photo of that one.
We continued on our way through Westonia on the road to Sandford Rocks.
In 1910, a sandalwood cutter and part-time prospector named Alfred David Weston (17 May 1876 – 26 September 1924) discovered gold in the area, near Bodallin Soak, while enroute to the Eastern Goldfields. As a result, the area came to be referred to as Weston’s Reward and later Westons.
By 1914, people who had taken up residence in the area had changed its name and formed the Westonia Progress Association.
By 1915 there were two major mines in the area, and the population was in excess of 500. By 1917 the area had a population of more than 2,000.
In 1919, low gold prices forced the closure of the mines, and many people left the area. Westonia was gazetted as a town in February 1926.
In 1935 one of the mines reopened, but closed again in 1948, only to be reopened in 1985. The mine then closed once again in 1991.
In mid-2009, it was announced that mining would once again commence at Westonia’s Edna May Gold Mine, with the first gold pour anticipated for May 2010, coinciding with the centenary of the discovery of gold in the district
The lookout at the Edna May Mine has been re-opened to the public, but it is a steep uphill climb on a badly water rutted road. It wasn’t something we were prepared to tackle.
Boodalin Soak was the next location on our drive.
Boodalin Soak is situated within the Westonia Common, approximately 6 km west of the Westonia townsite, and can be accessed via Stoneman Road. The area is part of a 5,600-hectare remnant bushland, offering a tranquil natural setting with native grasslands and seasonal wildflowers in spring.
The soak holds great historical value as a resting place for travellers journeying from York to Kalgoorlie. Originally a native well, it was improved and lined by Charles Cooke Hunt and his team of probationary prisoners and Pensioner Guards in 1865 during his Wells and Track Expedition.
The well was part of a series of watering points along what became known as Hunt’s Track, which was crucial for sandalwood cutters, pastoralists, and gold prospectors.
The stonework around the well is an example of dry-stone wall construction in a circular fashion, and the well is fenced and surrounded by newly planted trees. (see photo)
The gravel roads we travelled were in excellent condition. On one occasion we were travelling 70 kilometres an hour along the road and some top knot pigeons were flying in front of us and continued to pull away. Boy, they can fly fast. This continued for at least 2 kilometres.
Part of the way I read to Russ to rest my eyes from the flashing scenery going past, while other times Russ alerted me to the wildflowers that were beginning to appear on the verges.
Many of the places we have already been, and several more we are yet to get to, are surrounded by parts of the Great Western Woodlands.
Our final destination for today, and where we stopped for lunch, was Sandford Rocks. The rocks are located on Boodarockin Road. (I kid you not!)
These rocks were named after surveyor Henry Sandford King who was active in the area in the late 1880s. He was Surveyor General of Western Australia from 1918-23.
The brochure says, “We doubt if you will be disappointed. The rocks are home to a marvellous array of trees and plants – native peaches and sandalwood, wattles, myrtles, native orchids, tiny carnivorous plants and a profusion of colour, all emerging in a low phosphate environment.”
I think we were a trifle early, but fingers crossed for other areas we explore later.
Home to rock wallaby, numerous gnamma holes where every little waterhole is worth looking at. They contain a profusion of life – tiny, banded tadpoles, water fleas and other creatures.
The rocks are upholstered in lichens. The wind blows cold around you and civilisation is somewhere else. Here Mother Nature is totally in charge.
There is a little walking trail that leads you to a Bird Hide and places to sit for a picnic lunch. The bird hide is a gem. It is well placed to see the birds as they access the water holes on the rocks, and the seats and viewing slots are at different heights to cater for all.
The Nature Reserve protects 806ha of granite outcrop, pools, wildflowers, scrub and woodland and it has many diverse species of flora and fauna.
Along the way we found some early blooming Velvet Leaf Firebush, and Russ captured a Weebil and an owl, but the owl is too far away for proper identification purposes.
Sandford Rocks is part of the Yilgarn Craton, a rock formation made up of granite that is estimated to be 2600 million years old.
This vast expanse of granite extends for thousands of metres below the surface and is seen when erosion allows higher formations to extend above the land’s surface.